Week 7... Leaving the Galilee, heading toward the desert

As we leave the Galilee, one last visit to make will be to the remains of one of the many ancient synagogues that are found there, the synagogue of Beth Alfa. There are more remains of synagogues here in the Galilee than anywhere else in Israel mostly because, as we have said, it was here that Jews fled when they were no longer welcome in Jerusalem. It was here in the Galilee that rabbinical Judaism flourished. One point of interest is the design we find in synagogues. This can tell us something about the people who built them and prayed within their walls. Some strictly interpreted the laws of TORAH regarding the non use of human forms and making use, instead, of geometric and floral designs. Others went so far as to include even the images of Greek gods. Here at Beth Alfa, the beautiful mosaic floor from the 5th C. CE features a circular zodiac decoration prominently placed in the mosaic floor. Other parts of the mosaic floor depict thoroughly Jewish scenes including the binding of Isaac. The inclusion of the zodiac motif suggests something we become aware of: that biblical religion adopted and adapted many practices even in such orthodox places as temples and synagogues.

This brief stop near at the foot of Mt. Gilboa and very near to Beth Shean, the gateway to the Jezreel Valley, where we have spent our time these days, affords us a final glimpse of the Land of Zebulun and Nephtali, the beautiful Galilee! We set our faces south now and will follow the road that runs north and south through the Jordan Valley with the land of Gilead and Ammon on the opposite side of the River (present day Jordan). We will gradually see the landscape change into desert. I really never understand why people draw down the shades and sleep on the bus! The road we drive along follows the same route Jesus would have traversed when making his way from Galilee up to Jerusalem or to the desert. He would have done what we will try to do along the way: recall the stories of the Bible that have as their setting the places we will pass like Jericho and Gilgal.

As we descend well below sea level, we catch sight of the Dead Sea that now separates Israel from what was ancient Moab. We will make 2 stops, maybe 3 if time permits. First we will visit Qumran, the location of the desert community that seems to have left Jerusalem in opposition to the priestly establishment there. This community produced the Dead Sea Scrolls which were discovered in 1948. We then move on to Masada, the mountain retreat built by Herod the Great. We ascend by cable car and explore the site that later became the final home of zealous Jews who led a revolt against Rome. They fled to this desert fortress but were pursued by Rome. Finally, as the story goes, these people took their own lives rather than surrender to the brutality of the Romans. If only the stones could speak! Both of these places would have more stories to tell. Each of these locations leaves us with some sense of mystery about how the people lived and why they chose to settle in this barren place. BUT…you also know that the desert was the place of origin for Israel and so the desert provides some paradigm for those wishing to return to their roots.

This is also why we are here. What is it that the desert has to say to us? We know it is more than a geographical place yet, as we experience this landscape, as dry and barren as it is, we might be drawn to ponder some important realities. People who live in the desert have to accept that life is fragile and vulnerable. One does not make demands on the desert that it is unable to supply. One needs to be content with simplicity in the desert. All the amenities of the city are not to be found here. What is absolutely needed to sustain life? One thinks of water and shade and shelter. The story of Israel's wandering in the wilderness should not be read simply to learn how our ancestors in faith got from Egypt to the Promised Land. These stories should be read from the perspective of trying to understand how we make a similar journey from slavery to freedom. It involves a trek through periods of "wilderness". Israel was being formed in the ways of God-a God they did not know. So the journey takes time and the lessons are often missed. Israel is "tested" by God in the wilderness. "Tested"…the word implies that God is pressing to see what is truly in their heart, do they have faith, do they trust this God, and are they coming to understand his ways? Life is often this for us. Spiritual writers speak of the difficult periods of our life as this "desert" time, when we are without the props that make life familiar and we are walking in a barren landscape. Yet here is where we often grow, as Israel does, into understanding the ways of God. In the wilderness, Israel experiences God's daily care and sustaining presence in the daily bread, the manna. Sometimes in the "desert moments" of our own lives, we too experience God's presence in striking ways that leave us with certain knowledge that a pillar of cloud and fire in fact do guide us, even though these are unseen. The reality they point to, the divine presence, journeys with us as we move from stage to stage in our journey of faith and grow into the ways of God.

If time permits, and even if it does not, the third place we would hope to visit is the beautiful desert oasis of Ein Gedi. This restful place can be a fitting place to pray the 23rd psalm. Walking the trail that follows the waterfall, one passes by a cave. Remember the story of David and Saul? (1 Sam 24:1-17). The desert oasis is such a contrast with the harshness of the desert landscape. Where do we find such refreshment in the midst of our desert trek?

I will leave you here wandering about in the desert! Mary Denne is off for a well deserved vacation and we will not be publishing any reflections until the beginning of August. Enjoy your time in the desert! Try reading some bits of Numbers. Interesting "desert" reading!